Faux Masters Studio Blog

The best way to prevent a product issue is to educate yourself on the product you wish to use by attending a class, download or ask for the product description and most importantly, MAKE A SAMPLE TO TEST THE FINISH FOR BEST RESULTS.

We’ve compiled a list of the most common mistakes that are made in the learning process. Not to worry, we’ve made quite a few of these ourselves!

MY PRODUCT . . .

1. Dries too fast / too slow.
2. Dries lighter / darker.
3. Isn’t dry / still tacky to the touch.
4. Shows all the flaws in the surface / unwanted texture.
5. Has a different color from one side of surface to next.
6. Is creating lap lines (evidence of overlapping).
7. Is pulling off the surface / bubbling up / cracking.
8. Mixture is a different color than before.
9. Requires too much pigment.
10. Topcoat is cloudy.
11. Topcoat is uneven / I have brush marks.
12. Topcoat has damaged the finish.
13. Was damaged with a pencil / pen / scratched.
14. Isn’t burnishing.
15. Is turning gray when I burnish.
16. Is too thick and amber in color.

This information is provided as a way to further assist you in your product knowledge. This may not be a complete solution to your issue. For additional assistance, blog your question under “Technical Support,” or contact Faux Masters Studio 1.888.977.FAUX for immediate assistance.

1.  Dries too fast – The environment you are working in may be attributing to your drying time, or your substrate may have more absorbtion than you had anticipated, or you may be using a product with more resin and may require the addition of a different product to help slow-down the drying time. You could use any of these products listed here:

• AquaCreme* – a glaze medium to make product or colors more transparent, while slowing down the drying time.
• AquaExtender* – a product extender.
• So Slow Super Extender* – an extreme extender that also adds slip.

*The addition of these extender products may change the behavior of your original product or mixture. Make a test sample for best results.

Dries too slow – You may be using a product with extender properties in it and may require you to slow down your production time, or change into a different product. See below under “Isn’t dry / still tacky.”

2.  Dries lighter – Your product was built to do this to approximate the appearance of real plaster finishes, or you may be using a lime-based product that naturally behaves this way. You may need to adjust the amount of pigment added to your product. If the product requires too much pigment (beyond 8% – 10%), you may need to change the color of your base to more closely match the desired color and then adjust the color, or change the kind of pigment you are using (ask for assistance with this).

Dries darker – All polymer (plastic) based painting products dry darker, including latex paints. Polymer products are usually milky or have a bluish cast to them until they are completely dry. Many of Faux Effects products were built to dry slower for easier application. Sometimes it takes a little longer than a quick drying to see the actual mixture pigmentation.

3.  Isn’t dry / still tacky – You may be using a product with extender properties in it and may require you to slow down your production time. The temperature your work area is during the application and drying process is VERY IMPORTANT.

All Faux Effects products require a temperature above 55 degrees Fahrenheit so that the polymers will properly crystallize.

4.  Shows flaws / unwanted texture –

• Your surface may not have been primed or well prepared.
• The product you are using may have “telegraphing” properties. Some Faux Effects products will reveal any details in your base layer – wanted or unwanted. You will need to minimize the unwanted texture or flaw by either sanding it away or applying a new layer with the right product and technique before the final layer is applied.

5.  Different Color –

• Your surface may not have been primed or well prepared. Go to: “Do I have to prime?”
• You may not have made enough of your original mixture and ran out before the end of your surface or job. Always add in a 20% “overage” to your calculations for best results. Go to “How far does a product go?”

6.  Is creating lap lines –

• You may need more “open time” (drying time). Try adding some extender, or speed up your technique.
• You may not be “feathering out” your outside edges before moving to the next section. Even though applying a glaze seams easy, creating a well-blended surface takes practice! Attending a class will help improve your technique.

7.  Is pulling off – Your original surface was not well prepared.

Bubbling up – You are using a very dense plaster and may have applied the product too thick for the moisture to be released. Allow this layer to dry completely, usually this bubbling will minimize or completely pull back down.

Cracking – This new layer may have been applied before the previous layer was completely dry. This new layer was applied over a much heavier texture, which caused the surface to pull apart as it was drying.

8.  Different color than before –

• You may have used the wrong pigment in your mix.
• Each time you make a custom mixture your color may be slightly different than before, that’s why it’s a good idea to add in a 20% overage of product to ensure you have enough.
• If doing a very big job you may want to “box” your mixture (Boxing refers to inter-mixing your custom mixture to ensure equal distribution of color and ingredients).
• If doing a very big job with the same non-customized product, ask for the same batch of product when purchasing – if that is possible.

9.  Requires too much pigment –

• You need to start with a base color that is closer to your needs before adding pigment for adjustments.
• You need to use a product with a higher pigment load. Ask for assistance.

10.  Topcoat is cloudy –

• Your application is too thick and moisture is trapped within this layer.
• Your applying a new layer before the previous was completely dry.
• The area you are working in is too humid and moisture has been trapped in the surface.
• The product you are using has flattening agents in the mix (satin or dull). On dark surfaces you should start with a layer of gloss, then use satin or dull.

11.  Topcoat is uneven –

• Your application is not even or the product is too thick and needs to be thinned down.
• The product you are using has flattening agents in the mix (satin or dull). On dark surfaces you should start with a layer of gloss, then use satin or dull.

I have brush marks – You need to thin down the topcoat with enough water to make it run like corn syrup. Use only clean pure china or sable bristles on a quality brush. Apply a minimum of 2 layers, the first in one direction and the second the other. Let dry completely between coats. Some evidence will always be there unless you decide to spray your topcoats.

12.  Has damaged the faux finish – The stronger your topcoat bond is, the more penetration it will have into the surface, hence, your finish. Over recently dry surfaces, or delicate glazes, always apply a “barrier” or “isolation” coat with a clear acrylic sealer (ColorSeal or AquaGuard / DuraSheen is stronger) before applying your topcoat.

13.  Was damaged with a pencil / pen – Some marks can simply be cleaned up with mild soap and water. NEVER use ammonia-based cleaning products over Faux Effects products. Many of our customers (and ourselves) have had very good luck with “Mr. Clean” sponges.

Scratched –

• Your tool is dirty! Clean it.
• Some scratches are caused by your trowel picking up what we like to call “hitchhikers,” meaning that a piece of dried product attached itself to the edge of your trowel and scratched into the area you are working on. Keep your trowel clean and free of burrs (burrs are gouges in the trowel, sand the edges and clean before creating a fine plaster, and/or choose a newer trowel).
• If a scratch was made after your finish was dry, in some cases you can very artistically “patched” this area. In most cases, if you or the client just can’t live with it the finish may need to be redone for that surface area (or if its inconspicuous, you may have to hide it, or live with it).

14.  Isn’t burnishing – You may have waited too long before burnishing the plaster. Plaster products, that will burnish, need to be burnished just after it has “flashed off” (begins to dry) and the burnishing should be finished within the same day it’s applied. With “StuccoLux” you can still burnish up to a day later, but the longer you wait, the less burnishing effects will be noticed. Attending a class will help improve your technique.

15.  Is turning gray when I burnish – Your trowel is probably stainless steel and leaving marks as you work. Switch to a plastic trowel, or go lighter on your pressure. In some cases you can use a 320 to 400 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the gray color away.

16.  Is too thick and amber in color – Faux Effects AquaCrackle Size is made from a different kind of resin and has a shelf life of about 6 months from the time of sale. As the product ages, it will become more viscous and have a deeper amber tone. If the shelf life is still good, in most cases you can thin with some water and mix well to use (this mix will always now be a little milky looking). Always test crackle mixtures!

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