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Product Application

Knowing which Faux Effects product you want to choose will get you half way to creating the perfect finish!  Always make a sample of your intended finish on the same or similar substrate for best results.

The full product descriptions available on www.fauxcenter.com will allow you to make an informed choice.

This section will cover:

A QUICK LOOK PRODUCT GUIDE
WHICH PRODUCT WILL . . . (links to Charts page to find out which products will do what)
THE MOST USED TEXTURAL TECHNIQUES & THEIR BEST PRODUCTS
PLASTER & TEXTURE TECHNIQUES
TIPS & TRICKS IN WOOD FINISHING

 

The information provided in this section is here to assist you in your product knowledge and general techniques and not meant to replace the value of taking a class to best absorb and learn the correct way to utilize Faux Effects products.

A surface that is not well prepared will affect how successful your finish is achieved. See our section on “Surface Preparation” for more information.

A QUICK LOOK PRODUCT GUIDE

These are just some items available in the Faux Effects product lines.

BASECOATS –

CLEAR GLAZING MEDIUMS –

  • AquaCreme – a heavier bodied glazing medium with clarity and good open time
  • AquaGlaze – a glaze medium especially designed for use with latex house paints
  • Fx Thinner – a penetrating stain medium for use on raw woods (can thin Stain & Seal)

CLEAR COATS – (listed weak to strong)

  • ColorSeal – best over sensitive color work as a barrier before tougher topcoats
  • AquaGuard / DuraSheen – Interior/ exterior, acrylic clear coat, best for isolation layers
  • AquaThane / DuraGard – Interior/exterior polyurethane topcoat material with Co-Solvents
  • Varnish Plus – Interior pre-catalyzed conversion varnish, cleanable after curing
  • C-500 Urethane – Interior/ exterior, pre-catalyzed polyurethane, maximum durability

COLORANTS

CRACKLES

  • AquaCrackle – a premixed paint that will crack over AquaSize
  • CrackleMate  – an additive for paints or texture products to yield crackle finishes
  • AquaSize – a glue for creating crackle finishes and leafing techniques

STAIN & SEAL

  • Stain & Seal - Rich dye-like stains used mostly in wood finishing. Can also be used as a richly pigmented penetrating glaze (when added to a glazing medium) for wall applications.

TEXTURE PRODUCTS

SPECIALTY

  • AquaExtender – extends the open time in all Faux Effects products
  • Clear Finishing Paste – used as a topcoat for Stain & Seal where a hard topcoat isn’t necessary
  • Designer Foil - a high metallic foil used with AquaSize for decorative effects; comes in colors, holograms and glitters
  • Dutch Metal – an opaque metallic product used instead of leafing, or for decorative effects
  • EZ Kleen - a water based paint remover and equipment cleaner
  • MicaGlow Powder (also comes in Hi-Lite) – an additive used to increase the reflective effects in any product
  • MicaGlow Flakes – an additive used to increase the reflective effects in any product
  • Designer Rust Kit (black or brown base) – a prepackaged kit to create rust-like finishes
  • PrimEtch – an etching product used to prepare glass, ceramic, and porcelain tiles for finishing processes
  • So Slow Super Extender – a super slow extender for use in all Faux Effects Products
  • Verdigris (bronze & copper kits)  – a prepackaged kit to create green/blue patina-like finishes over either bronze or copper bases

OTHER PRODUCTS

 

THE MOST USED TEXTURAL TECHNIQUES

& THEIR BEST PRODUCTS

All textural products utilize the “S-S-S” system, or Scratch-Skim-Skip. They are explained in the “Plasters & Textures Techniques” guide. Also, C-curves, S-curves, & Kissing.

 

Organic and Directional (or linear)

Different surfaces require either of these or a combination. Organic means: without linear evidence in your trowel or glazing technique. By focusing on an irregular application and or movement of product trying not to create “stamps” in your surface you will create a more “organic” surface. For glazing, think of very thin soft wispy clouds dappling the sky, or in textures the slow undulation of an old plastered wall. Directional, of course, means “with direction” like using a brush and applying “with the grain” of the wood.

For All products

 

Holidays

Very useful when creating a base for lime based plaster effects as these products will “chalk out” or go lighter in the deeper crevices or holidays. A holiday is literally when a painter missed a spot and we say they “took a holiday.” It is created by skimming less than 100% of the receiving surface; paying close attention to an “organic” appearance to them for a more refined decorative effect.

For All Textural Products

Mostly used for Lime Based systems or systems that tend to “chalk out”:

 

Backfill or Tight Skim

Usually referred to when pulling a very tight skim trowel over a previous layer with skip texture or holidays in it. This new layer “backfills” the lower areas smoothing out the textural evidence of the surface. This is especially helpful when creating “imbedded” effects with burnishing plasters, or for filling in the low areas while “burnishing” the top areas.

For All Textuaral Products

Great when used for imbedded and burnishing effects with:

 

Imbedded vs. Stenciled

Imbedding a design or pattern into the surface works especially well for lime based products that “chalk out” and decorative plasters that shimmer or reveal the design underneath due to these pressure sensitive products. When a tight skim coat is applied to “backfill” over the pattern or stenciled design these products will “reveal” the design below by darkening and burnishing the high points. When you stencil over something, the design is lifted above the surface layer and sits on top of it. Some backfilling is done for a decorative effect even over non-chalking plaster systems.

All Textural Products

For Imbedding:

 

Staccato or Blading

These are pure decorative techniques utilized with any product for effect, however, they started off as a Venetian plaster skill applied especially with Veneziano to achieve a visual textural effect within the plastered surface. Using a Japan Spreader (sometimes called a Burnishing Blade) product is applied in short quick strokes either directionally or non-directionally. Multiple layers of this in a plaster yields a choppy, sometimes rhythmic effect. When applied directionally, you get a more geometric design.

Best when used with thinner products and sometimes an easier technique for those that dry really fast!

 

Positive Application, Negative Release & Stamping

Positive application – is when product is picked up and applied to the surface then blended.

Negative Release – is when product is applied to an area, then manipulated off.

Stamping or Negative Impression (textures)– is when product has been applied and something is pushed into the surface and then pulled out, like leaves or a rag’s texture.

Glazes work equally in all areas depending on the desired finish. Textures are generally positively applied, and in some cases, negatively released like with the new RsSeries (training required). Other products like AquaStone, LusterStone,  TextureFil, Venetian Gem Plaster System and Palette Deco work well when rags or tools are pressed or stamped into them.

Some products are thin enough to pounce positively with a bag to get a variety of textures, or, like with LusterSuede, rolled on then pounced lightly.

 

Crackling

Most of Faux Effects paints & textural products can be mixed with Olde World CrackleAdd (CrackleMate) to cause the texture to crack when applied over Olde World Crackle Size (AquaSize). You can vary the size of the cracks by how much Crackle Add you mix into the texture – best when 30% is added to your texture product. Adding the Crackle Add will sometimes lighten the tone of that products color so do some sampling first. Also, the Crackle Add is very thick and sometimes is hard to blend into your mix, so thin with about 10% to 20% water BEFORE adding to textures (don’t thin for paints). Straining this “Crackle Mixture” is highly recommended.

For All Textural Products – not meant for RsSeries, or Waxes

Works well with SeCoat & Designer Metallics too!

 

PLASTER & TEXTURE TECHNIQUES

 

SandStone, PlasterTex & AquaStone (FauxTex)  are the most commonly utilized products for creating plaster or texture finishes. Other textural products utilize these same techniques when building plaster or texture surfaces. The choice of product will yield different results for your finishes. Always make a sample to ensure the best results for your finish.

SandStone & PlasterTex are versatile texture mediums that have great body to them and can be easily manipulated to either a smooth or textured finish. AquaStone (FauxTex) is a full-bodied material that holds its shape when troweled or texturized. PlasterTex has combined properties of FauxTex (AquaStone) and SandStone with other added materials.

Sandstone, if left natural, has a very light beige tone to it with some dark brown flecks of color. This product is untinted. PlasterTex has an off white tone with some dark brown flecks of color. It has been tinted with titanium to make it whiter. The depth of color can be enhanced by “breaking” open the flecks. Using greater pressure while troweling or sanding the product when dry will reveal more flecks. These products work best when used to create stone-like effects or when used as a base for creating other textural effects over it. They can also be used to minimize the appearance of a textured surface.

AquaStone (FauxTex) is off white in appearance without any flecks in the material. This product has been tinted with titanium as well to make it whiter. This product works best for stone, brick, or plaster effects. It can also be used to minimize undesired texture on a surface before other products are used.

 

Procedure:

As a general rule, all plaster finishes or techniques require the development of 2 – 4 thin coats to build up depth. The first coat will not necessarily look good, and should be considered as merely a base upon which to build up subsequent layers. The method of your application will affect the outcome of your finish.

One easily mastered way to approach troweling or plastering is with an “S-S-S” system:

Scratch, Skim, Skip

Scratch Coat:

A scratch coat is a thin layer of product that may be rolled onto the surface to provide some “tooth” for subsequent layers to grab onto better. Using a ½”nap roller cover (or larger), thin your product with water until it can be easily rolled onto the surface (usually between 10% and 20%). You need to work the product into the roller, it helps if you dampen the roller cover and then towel dry before loading. This gritty sandpaper-like layer will help achieve a more even coverage in your next layer while minimizing unwanted surface textures by allowing more product to catch onto the surface. This works especially well for getting a good coat onto “bull-nose” corners.

 

Skim Trowel:

A skim trowel is a thin even layer of product applied to the surface. This layer usually covers 100% of your surface with little evidence of your application method.

Italian or Japanese stainless steel or plastic trowels will work best for these techniques, although you could use other kinds of trowels or even a broad knife to achieve this technique. When creating a plaster or texture surface, a trowel is held in your dominant hand and a second trowel called a “hock” is held in the other. Product is placed evenly along the long working edge of your hock (the longest side closest to your body when arm is bent). The hock acts as a loading and offloading device for your working trowel. Product is loaded onto the working trowel by blading off product from the hock to the working trowel. Which side depends on the direction you chose to apply the product. This technique ensures just the right amount of product loaded onto your trowel at one time. When too much product begins to build up on the trowel, blade off onto the hock to remove.

When you apply product using an oblique angle (close to the surface), more product will be left behind on the surface. When you apply product using a higher angle, less product will be applied. The leading edge of your trowel will always need to be lifted off the surface slightly to ensure your trowel doesn’t drop and “kiss” the surface leaving behind unwanted texture in this layer. You could think of spreading an even layer of butter over toast when trying to understand this technique, or think of skiing, snowboarding or skating when using a trowel. Many of the techniques used in these types of gliding sports are the same for troweling.

Use broad, firm sweeping strokes in this layer. Manipulate the product using curved or organic movements to help smooth out the application evidence as much as possible. Some of this movement will always remain and should not be frowned upon. In some instances, these two layers are sufficient to achieve the desired finish. Keeping your trowel clean of dried product will help ensure a more successful finish.

 

Skip Trowel:

A skip trowel gives the surface its character. This layer can cover anywhere from 10% to 100% depending on the desired level of textural character in the finish. It can also be thick or thin depending on the desired appearance of your finish.

This layer utilizes less pressure and shorter strokes. Loading very little product along the longest edge of your trowel (or broad knife), use a low angle and allow the product to skip over the surface like a stone over still water. Think of moving your trowel like a plane coming in for a landing and then taking off right away. The transition is smooth from touchdown to take-off. Using this technique will help eliminate any blade marks on your surface. Try not to use horizontal or vertical strokes, keep manipulating the trowel using “S” or “C” curves creating organic movement in the surface.

An alternate method for application is to apply the product by “kissing” the surface with your trowel, then smoothing it down. You could also use a slightly damp sea sponge to pick up and place product where you would like it to go, then smooth it down with your broad knife or trowel. Just be sure not to get into the habit of “stamping” with your sponge. Keep the method of your application subtle or unnoticed.

 

Skim/Skip Troweling:

By combining these two techniques into one layer, you give the surface more “integrated” movement and beauty. Pulling and smoothing the product utilizing both techniques at alternating intervals will yield more depth and subtle textural character.

It may be possible to eliminate the need for a third and separate layer, however, that depends upon the quality of the substrate. If the existing texture on the surface is pleasing or smooth, you may be able to complete your job in 2 coats. If your substrate is not pleasing, or too thick, you will need to create multiple layers to achieve the desired appearance of your finish.

 

TIPS & TRICKS IN WOOD FINISHING

 

When faux finishing, we generally WORK FORWARD. Rarely does a surface require stripping and unless you want to be in the business of using solvents, think in terms of working forward in your finishing.

 

CLEANING & PREPARING YOUR SURFACE:

If the surface you are working on is old and dirty, use a liquid sander first to clean, then sand to give some “tooth,” and re-clean with liquid sander.

To degrease or minimize fisheye on a pre-finished surface, use Jasco Liquid Sander by Paint Etch or TSP (no rinse kind) instead of sandpaper.  You can also lightly scrub it with a Scotch Brite pad. Let the liquid sander dry completely before applying product or you could cause de-lamination.

 Painted Surfaces: Use method above.

Lacquered Surfaces: Use method above.

Polymers: Use method above.

Conversion Varnish: Clean using method above to remove grease, but you MUST SAND.

Raw Wood: Just sand smooth and begin with your finish. Water based products will raise the grain of your wood slightly, so some sanding in-between may be necessary for smooth or stained finishes. If you are working on raw Oak or Mahogany (and sometimes Ash), you should use an oil-based primer first for painted finishes. These woods have Tanic Acid in them and may alter the appearance of your finish.

 If unsure of your receiving surface, test on an inconspicuous area by starting with the weakest solvent first, then work your way to the strongest:

If Denatured Alcohol works = water-based

If Paint Thinner works = oil-based (if rubbed too hard you might soften some lacquers)

If Lacquer Thinner works = lacquer-based

When all else fails, it’s probably conversion varnish or epoxy and will require sanding to help create a physical bond with the new product applied on top.

 

BRUSHING:

If brushing your basecoats, apply your 1st coat without diluting. If the paint is very thick, dilute with up to 10% water for your 1st coat. Always follow the grain. Let dry and lightly sand using 220 grit sandpaper and dust off with lint free cheesecloth or an old brush (don’t use tack cloth from the hardware store, it has wax on it). You can dilute your second layer with 10% to 30% water to help it flow better. Let dry and lightly sand if necessary.

When brushing your basecoats, the paint will be less transparent than if you were to spray them.  You may need to lighten the tone of your paint slightly if you change the application method of your basecoats from job to job, or from our classes to your job. (We spray all of our basecoats here at Faux Masters Studio.)

 

SPRAYING:

We would suggest a class or training before attempting to spray products.

 

GLAZING LAYERS:

You may apply as many thin layers of glaze as you need to build up depth and dimension in your finishes. However, never try to achieve a dark tone in one or two layers by using a lighter receiving surface, you will get a “painted” appearance. If you need a deeper finish, start with a darker basecoat and work with less layers of glaze (which translates to less time on the job!).

 

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